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Insulating Your Laundry Room

Depending on the number of people in your household, you may be spending more time in the laundry room than you care to. And the fact that home laundry facilities are sometimes relegated to a small room in a less than ideal area of the house doesn't make things any more pleasant. But one thing you can do to improve the environment in your laundry room is install adequate insulation of the right kind.

There are some practical considerations to take into account when insulating your laundry room. For example, an average dryer cycle can add significant humidity and moisture to the air. This moisture in the air is transferred along with heat and can infiltrate your walls. (Over time, this can damage the walls.)

Sound control is also important for keeping the noise from your washer and dryer from migrating to other rooms. JM offers the insulation products you need to control moisture and sound on your laundry room.

How to Install Insulation in Interior Walls

Installation Tips

1. To install in interior walls for good sound control, apply caulk between the top plates and at the bottom plate and floor. You should apply sealants or caulks only to clean, dry, oil-free surfaces. Smooth caulking with your fingertip or a putty knife.
2. If you are using faced batts, place the batts into the wall cavity and staple the flanges of the batts to the inside or the face of the studs about every 12". If you are using unfaced batts, place the insulation into the cavity, making sure that it is the correct size and fits snugly at the sides and ends and does not protrude in the back.
3. If the insulation is too long, cut it to fit properly. Don't double it over or compress it. Use a sharp utility knife and straightedge. Cut batts on a smooth, flat surface, and cut them about 1" larger than the framing cavity. If the material is too short, cut a piece to size to fill the gap.
4. Fill in any narrow gaps between joists by forcing pieces of unfaced insulation into the gaps with a screwdriver or putty knife.

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How to Install Insulation in Exterior Walls

Installation Tips

Insulation should be installed in all exterior walls that separate conditioned spaces from unconditioned spaces, including knee walls and basement walls.

1. If you are using faced batts, place the batts into the wall cavity and staple the flanges of the batts to the inside or face of the studs about every 12 inches. Kraft facing must not be left exposed. It must be covered with gypsum board or another approved interior finish. Where an exposed application is required, use FSK-25 flame-resistant faced insulation. If you are using unfaced batts, place the insulation into the cavity, making sure that it is the correct size and fits snugly at the sides and ends and does not protrude in the back.
2. If the insulation is too long, cut it to fit properly. Don't double it over or compress it. Use a sharp utility knife and straightedge. Cut batts on a smooth, flat surface, and cut them about 1" larger than the framing cavity. If the material is too short, cut a piece to size to fill the gap.
3. Fill in any narrow gaps between joists by forcing pieces of unfaced insulation into the gaps with a screwdriver or putty knife.
4. To control air leakage, apply caulk or foam sealants around openings like window and door frames and any openings where wires or pipes go through the exterior wall.

To apply a vapor retarder:

1. To apply the poly film, start at the top plate in one corner of the room.
2. Pull the film tight and staple at least every 12 inches.
3. Drive staples at the center of every stud and around openings, working around the room.
4. Overlap the sheets by one complete cavity to minimize leakage. Then staple evenly through, fastening both sheets to the studs at one- to two-foot intervals.
5. Pull the film tight along the sole plate and staple in the same manner, making sure the staples are driven flat, flush to the stud surface.
6. Trim out the poly from over windows, doors and electrical boxes.

NOTE: In areas of the country where vapor retarders are not required, bathrooms would require unfaced insulation and no poly film covering to allow moisture to escape.

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